Open-Hole vs Closed-Hole Flutes: What Beginners Need to Know
Published October 31, 2026 · by Flute Fingering Chart
Flute shops and listings use many unfamiliar terms: open-hole, closed-hole, offset G, B foot. They sound important, but most of them matter much less to a beginner than how well the instrument has been set up. This guide explains what each one means and when it might matter for you.
Closed-hole keys
Closed-hole keys, also called plateau keys, are solid. Your fingers only have to press them down, so a slightly misplaced finger will still seal the key. This is why most student flutes are made this way, and why they are usually the best choice for beginners and for young players with small hands.
Open-hole keys
Open-hole keys, sometimes called French keys, have a hole in the centre of five of the keys. Your finger pad has to cover the hole fully, so they encourage accurate hand position. Advanced players also value them because partly covering a hole makes it possible to bend pitch and play certain modern techniques.
They are more demanding at first, and a leaky finger position may stop a note from sounding. Silicone plugs can temporarily close some of the holes, so you can move across gradually if you buy an open-hole flute.
The fingerings are the same on both types. A note uses the same keys on either flute, so the diagrams on this site work for both.
Does the sound change?
Players disagree about how much the holes change the tone, and the differences are small compared with the effect of the player and the head joint. For someone in their first few years, the keys will not be what holds back your sound. Choose whichever suits your hands and your teacher's approach.
In-line vs offset G
On an offset G flute, the G key for your left ring finger sits slightly out of line, closer to your hand. On an in-line G flute, all the keys line up. Offset is more comfortable for most hands, and it is common on student flutes. It does not affect the notes or the sound in any significant way, so if a shop offers you a choice, pick the one that feels better.
C foot vs B foot
A standard C footjoint takes you down to low C. A B footjoint is slightly longer and adds low B, and it can make the flute feel a little heavier. Beginners do not need one. You will rarely meet a low B until you are playing advanced repertoire, and even then it may not be essential.
Curved head joints
Young children may have arms too short to reach all the keys comfortably, in which case a curved head joint brings the keys closer to them. It uses the same fingerings. If a child is straining to reach or tilts their head to compensate, ask a teacher or a good music shop about one.
So what matters most for a first flute?
- Condition: a well-regulated student flute with no leaking pads is better than a neglected, more expensive one. Ask for a recent service if you are buying second-hand.
- Comfort: you should be able to hold it without strain. Try it before buying if you can.
- Reputable make: very cheap, unbranded flutes may be hard to repair. Ask a local technician or teacher what they recommend.
- Renting: many music shops rent student flutes, and it is a sensible way to get started before you know whether you will stick with it.
Once you have your flute, the interactive fingering chart lets you choose your options for flute type and footjoint, so the diagrams match what is in your hands.